ETHOS: UR-210 Red Gold

CHF 147,000

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The UR-210’s satellite complication with the retrograde minute is both highly original and totally explosive. The principal feature is a high-tech, oversized, three-dimensional retrograde minute hand. Its function is to enclose the hour satellite and indicate the time as it transverses the 0-to-60-minute scale. This one-hour journey through time, tracing an arc of 120°, is smooth and fluid. But the true nature of the piece is revealed at the end of the 59th minute. Then a sharp distinct “click” signals the return of the minute hand to its starting point. In less than 0.1 of a second, the hand flies back to dock with the next hour satellite. This lightning-fast retrograde system is based on three key elements:

• A central axis set in ruby bearings provides excellent stability for the satellite/retrograde complication. A cylindrical marine chronometer type spring runs vertically around the axis and generates the optimal tension required for the retrograde minute's flyback.

• A minute hand, which also forms a frame for the hour satellites, displays the time in an extraordinary way. Milled from aluminium to exacting tolerances of approximately 3 microns, the whole structure has a total weight of just 0.302g and is counterbalanced by a brass weight. This three-dimensional cage offers rigidity as it transfers energy from the cylindrical flyback spring in the top centre of the carrousel to the double-star gear underneath.

• A double coaxial star-shaped cam regulates the retrograde mechanism through its gearing and its rotation defines the trajectory of the minute hand. When the minute hand reaches 60, the double star trips a (one of three) hockey-stick shaped spring under the mechanism, which liberates the minute to fly back to the next hour satellite at 0-minutes.

Creators Thoughts:

Felix Baumgartner - “In terms of the degree of evolution of the satellite carousel, I feel with the UR‐210 that we have reached the pinnacle of what we can do with this complication.”

Martin Frei - "Gold provides a unique feeling and emotion thanks to its density and its special appearance. In all the ancient and modern civilizations, gold was regarded as the material of the Gods. For me, as a trained sculptor and painter, touch is the first sense. This certainly explains my visceral attraction to gold. I like its solid, heavy, reassuring and eternal character “

The UR-210 collection is no longer in production, this is one of the last versions in 18k red gold. Available through our retail partner Ethos on India.

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